The decline of the Zapotec culture followed the rise of the Mixtec, displaced, in turn, by the thrust of the Aztecs, but none become extinct completely. When the Spanish arrived in Oaxaca came across a mosaic of cultures spread over a rugged terrain and inhabited by peoples whose life was given by the performance of their rites and traditions. In 1524, Hernán Cortés complaint letter to the King of Spain found in Oaxaca brake his efforts conqueror. "This land - says, referring to the valleys occupied by Mixtecs and Zapotecs - is so mountainous that can not be crossed even walk." As for the people, Cortés relates that twice sent troops against the Indians, "but were unable to find victory because his warriors were very fierce and well armed." A few years later, Cortés, bewitched by Oaxaca, confessed his passion for the same land that seemed rough and wild. "Blessed be God who allowed me to know these places," said the Spanish, who won the King, for himself, the Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca. • San Sebastián Abasolo Al southeastern Oaxaca Valley, on Highway 190. The town has a beautiful eighteenth century temple dedicated to San Sebastian Martyr. The two biggest festivals celebrating the Holy of the same name, on January 20, and the Virgin of the Assumption, August 15. • Santa Cruz Papalutla is reached by taking highway 190 to the Isthmus, then turn left at the detour through the town of San Sebastián Abasolo. In the town stands the temple of the Holy Cross, dating from the seventeenth century. The Tourist Yú'ù the place is decorated with images of butterflies, because the name of the town, Papalutla, originally means "field full of butterflies."