Before reaching Lake Yamdork you can make a stopover in Nangartse to eat and taste the local beer. The local beer called chang with which we water our main course (pasta accompanied by rich bits of yak meat and tasted awkwardly with chopsticks) we head rises rapidly because of the high altitude at which we find ourselves. The language breaks out and hammer clan chief with questions of all kinds to which our partner responds nicely one after another, calmly and without the smile disappears from his face at any time. Unfortunately, as I read in forums of travelers, the traditional Tibetan hospitality has given way to an interested and false kindness, frank and spontaneous smile of old has become a wicked grin that outlines the new "pastoralist false" when their pictures folk costumes in exchange for a few coins, is the price of progress.