A cleric is approaching our vehicle on the road leading from Wukro to Mekele. In Wukro the only sign of progress is a road, usual pace truck freight, military vehicles and buses crammed with passengers, which crosses the city and divides his way to Adigrat Mekele (the two main cities of Tigray). Life goes on either side of this road, where businesses of all kinds are mixed with the few government offices, with the occasional hotel and leisure property and small businesses of all types. The movement of people, at all hours, day and night, is also constant. The surrounding streets, unpaved, almost without light and full of large potholes (converted into huge puddles in the rainy season), home to the humble dwellings. Built around a common courtyard, houses, usually one room in which to sleep, cooking and life is, share toilet and faucet with neighbors. And this is not the only thing that is shared. Solidarity is, among these people who have nothing and give everything, amazing.